Archive for the ‘TOP Scythe’ Category

Farewell to brushed and NiMH – Part 1 – TOP Scythe

Friday, October 30th, 2009

So, the time has finally come for me to move out of the dark ages and upgrade my electrics.

My brushed motors are now all desperately lacking in comm and I have no more brushes. My NiMH cells false peak and are soft as hell on the track. Furthermore, the BRCA have dropped the touring weight limit to 1350gms – and there is no way I can acheive that with NiMH.

Before I throw half of this gear in the bin, I thought I’d upload a few current shots of the TOP Scythe (which may also be going soon as it is not particularly LiPo-friendly). I’ve been running the car in 19T class for a little over 2 years now, most recent result being a pretty satisfying 11th qualifier at the first round of the Carpet Thrashnals, against a good quality field running 10.5 brushless. Tyres are RP30.

TOP Scythe - Brushed and NiMH!

TOP Scythe - Brushed and NiMH!

The car is still running the original Protoform Mazdaspeed 6 body – which has seen far, far better days now! It’s also nice to have a #1 sticker on there – even if it is only for pole in the B final.

Ouch!

Ouch!

The car is still very close to a box-stock 2007 Red Edition. While many people upgraded to the complete alloy bulkheads, I always preferred the plastic car, which is a lot more forgiving. There is a little bit of red bling with the locknuts, but apart from the the car is prepped for performance, not looks.

TOP Scythe front end

TOP Scythe front end

At the front end the most obvious change is the spool. I’ve been running the TOP steel spool, and I’ve been very happy. Spools have a reputation for being hard on the drivetrain, but I have never broken a single part on the whole car – all that has been replaced is a couple of the plastic bulkheads when the threads have stripped from removing the top deck.

I’ll upload a setup at the end. Among the things not covered by the setup sheet, the interior of the shocks (all round) is a little different, using the Rayspeed 1.2mm machined pistons, and with the internal spacer ground down to 2mm to allow a decent amount of droop. I use the split rear block which makes it possible to raise the roll centres with shims without rubbing the belt. Oh, and I’ve also reversed the upper shock mounting and added a plain nut so you don’t crush the shock bushings – big problem with the Yokomo parts, which will really wreck the handling. I’ve also got some old steel Kyosho balls in the shock bottoms for smoother movement.

TOP Scythe electrics

TOP Scythe electrics

Here are the electrics which are about to be (mostly) retired. The Futaba S9550 low-profile servo and the R133F 40MHz FM receiver will stay. The servo is still perfect, and 40MHZ still works – so why change? For reference, I’m using the Tamiya high-torque servo saver (can’t fault it), and the TOP servo mounts need to be cut down a little to clear the servo cable.

The speed controller was dug up from the bottom of my pitbox. It’s a 2001 vintage GM V12 – not that you can tell because the label is completely worn away. Still a great brushed speedo. Motor is a Much-More Eavan 19T – again, a sound motor, made in the same Sagami factory that produces most of the non-Trinity 19Ts you could buy. No tweaks on that apart from some F-line brushes. Cells are East Power 4200s – which have also surprised me by surviving 2 years of use and misuse – but they are dead now.

TOP Scythe rear end

TOP Scythe rear end

Very little to report back here. Same approach to shock building as at the front, otherwise very close to stock – including the original steel diff balls (which are fine!). The optional TOP diff stickers come well recommended – they really do keep muck out and extend the time between rebuilds. They are available for a number of other cars too.

TOP Scythe chassis

TOP Scythe chassis

Finally, a shot from below. Despite a few outdoor meetings with the car, there are no gouges or scrapes, just a fine polishing of the chassis edges. Using the fine bumper shims helps, without them the bumper drags on the ground. And no, I never prep the chassis edges, and I have never had a chassis delaminate on any car. A bit of a trackside myth if you ask me…

Scythe_setup_thrashnal_10_09

That’s the car as it stands today. A museum piece really – amazing how fast LiPo and brushless have taken over. You may wonder why I have bothered to share this irrelevant information. Well, perhaps in 20 years time you will want to reminisce about nickel cells and carbon brushes – and this website might still be going!

A TOP Scythe setup…

Wednesday, January 21st, 2009

This is my setup from the Much-More UK North East on Carpet meeting on Sunday 18th January 2009. More details on the series at www.muchmoreracing.com and www.forum.nercr.net

This turned out to be a very driveable setup on the Sweep 32 control tyre, using a spool. The track was quite a flowing layout, 25x16m, on Prima Duo carpet – this has good grip but generates a LOT of fluff!

File is .pdf so requires Adobe Reader (or similar) to view.

scythe_setup_jarrow_18_1_09

Finally got round to it – photos of the TOP Scythe

Tuesday, July 1st, 2008

Here are some pics of my TOP Scythe. For those that don’t know this is a 1/10th electric touring car, combining the best of HPI, Yokomo and TOP’s own parts to make a very competitive chassis.

I just took these pics quickly as it is a sunny day, the car was run at an outdoor meeting a couple of days ago hence the tyre dust all over it. Sorry if it offends your eyes.

scythe_1

Somewhat battered shell now, having had the car 9 months or so. It is a Protoform Mazdaspeed 6 if you were wondering.

scythe_2

Under the shell. The car is quite close to standard, there are a few bling parts on there like the red nuts, but I still run the plastic bulkheads because for me the car is a lot easier to drive like that. And yes, I know I am using stone age brushed/NiMH/40MHz technology – but it works!

scythe_3

Couple of quick comments about this side – Keyence speedo is far and away the best brushed speedo I have ever used – totally programmable on-board and no schottky or power cap needed. I am using a low-profile servo (Futaba S9550) which does not overhang the chassis. And my lead ballast (50g of it to make 1500g safely) is in the centre of the chassis, just in front of the motor mount and beside the ESC. At some point I might experiment and move some of it behind the motor mount for a more rearward CG which should add stability when the grip is low.

scythe_4

Shot of the front showing the TOP steel spool – a very worthwhile addition on carpet and tarmac IMHO. Also, a tip on shock mounting, get some longer screws (M3x16mm) and fit backwards with a locknut so you can remove them more easily for maintenance and not crush the plastic mounts.

scythe_5

Another shot here showing the optional split suspension mounts – I use them because I run a raised front roll centre (2mm spacers under the mounts) and this gives more belt clearance.

scythe_6

Final shot of the car, the back end. Not much to say except that the TOP diff protection seals keep everything a lot cleaner and consistent, well worth the small outlay, and another tip about building the Yokomo-based shocks – cut down the triangle spacer for extra travel, you need it to get the droop right.

Any questions? Just leave a comment and I will reply.