Archive for the ‘RC Stuff’ Category

Inside the Speed Passion v3.0 motor…

Monday, December 14th, 2009

Out of curiosity I decided to take my Speed Passion v3.0 13.5 motor apart – it’s my first brushless motor and I was intrigued to see the differences to the old brushed motors.

The motor is held together by three long cap screws. Easy enough to remove. The next thing you notice is the incredible strength of the rotor magnet. You wonder whether it will pull half the motor out with it!

Exploded view of the SP v3.0 motor

Exploded view of the SP v3.0 motor

Once disassembled you are left with the above. From left to right: endbell; sensor board; silicone seal; can with windings; rotor; faceplate; screws.

The endbell is made from aluminium and has holes for the three plugs and the sensor socket. Contrary to the markings on the endbell, the sensor socket can actually be moved a total of 20degrees, factory setting is in the middle at zero, rotating the sensor anti-clockwise advances the timing.

A little more on brushless motor timing. According to reliable sources, a “wye” wound motor (like this 13.5) will perform terribly at its true 0deg timing position – which is with the sensors in the middle of each winding. So, in practice, 30deg advance is treated as zero timing.

30deg timing is "zero" advance in a wye wound motor

30deg timing is "zero" advance in a wye wound motor

Hopefully the image above shows this, albeit in a slightly blurry way! Looking down into the motor from the faceplate end, the red line marks the centre of the stator winding, the true odeg timing position. The green line marks the position of the sensor, 30deg advanced from zero. In this position, the sensor socket is in the factory “zero” setting.

Speed Passion v3.0 sensor board

Speed Passion v3.0 sensor board

Another view of the sensor board which has three sensors, one for each phase.

Speed Passion v3.0 13.5 rotor

Speed Passion v3.0 13.5 rotor

Finally, the rotor. This is 12.3mm in diameter, and very strong. There is a small amount of balancing epoxy on it (hidden below the shaft) and also a couple of brass spacers.

The motor is hand-wound, ballraced and very fast. But best of all it is virtually maintenance free. Just blow away the dust and put a drop of oil on the bearings from time to time!

Holts Professional Electronic Contact Spray

Friday, October 2nd, 2009

Holts Professional Electronic Contact Spray

In my continuing search for RC-suitable products in a city with no decent RC car shops I thought I would try this as a replacement for motor cleaner. £3.50 for a 400ml can from the local motor factors.

Unfortunately, although it does clean quite effectively, it is very slow to evaporate, so you spend a while wiping all the parts before re-assembly. Not a product I will be buying again.

Word to ya’ ;)

Schumacher's new tyre inserts

Thursday, July 30th, 2009

Just a brief (and slightly delayed) post.

Schumacher have finally got around to releasing some tyre inserts that fit!

Schumacher buggy inserts

Schumacher buggy inserts

On the left are the new-ish “U6734 Foam Tyre Insert; Med – Rear – CAT (pr)”. On the right the longstanding “U6653 Foam Tyre Insert; Hard – Rear – CAT (pr)”. As you can see there is a pretty big difference in the width, the good news being that the new inserts fill the whole of the tyre, whereas the old ones only supported the centre, and everyone had to use rare-breed foams like the old Snee inserts.

These are a lot easier to get hold of. Schumacher also do a matching “U6733 Foam Tyre Insert; Med – Front – CAT (pr)”, and if you still want the blue compound, get “U6669 Foam Tyre Inserts; Hard – Ultra Wide (pr)”.

My considered opinion on the medium compound insert? It’s just fine. Haven’t done any back-to-back tests so can’t say any more.

Some RC stuff for sale

Thursday, July 3rd, 2008

If you are interested in any of the stuff in this .xls file then leave a comment and I will get back to you.

parts_for_sale

An idiot's guide to promoting your RC club…

Monday, June 2nd, 2008

This has been bugging me for a while.

Too many RC clubs out there are getting small turnouts for the simple reason that nobody knows they exist!

Here are three things that every RC club should be doing. No if’s, no but’s – do it!

1. You need a website. And it needs to be UP TO DATE. If your picture gallery is from 2002 and the last race results are from Summer 2007 – why would anyone think you were still running? And if you don’t have race times and a full address – how will anyone come to the track? Almost anyone with a broadband account will have some free webspace, and there is plenty of easy to use software to make a basic one. It will cost you nothing but a little time to keep a website going.

2. You need posters/flyers in every local hobby shop. Don’t count on word of mouth. Don’t count on existing members coming back for eternity. Don’t count on one shop employee doing all the promotional work for you.

3. You need to run special events that will get wider coverage outside the hobby itself. Run invitational meetings if your track is up to it, and let the local press know if a national champion is coming to race. Run demonstrations at local motor shows and community events. And while you are there, make sure that people get the name of the club and can have their questions about the hobby answered – print banners for the rostrum, have a table with some static displays and more flyers. Don’t hide behind a catch fence with your back turned, displaying a sponsored T-shirt and nothing else.

This is all really basic stuff, simple marketing, that will get more people racing. And the more people that race, the more fun it is for everyone!

The Tamiya TEU-101BK ESC is NOT reverse polarity protected…

Monday, March 5th, 2007

…trust me, I found out the hard way.

Plugged the Corallies in the wrong way by mistake, heard a crack and a spark. Tried connecting the speedo up the right way, and although the servo was powered, there was no throttle, just a flashing led and a faint smell of burning.

Opened up the case (breaking the tabs as usual) and saw this…

TEU-101BK 1TEU-101BK 2

I should make it clear that I am not an electronic engineer and I don’t have a clue what I’m doing (so copy me at your own risk) but this looked to me like a blown circuit track along the negative side.

A rummage around the pitbox found an old motor brush which donated its braid…

TEU-101BK 3

…which was then tinned and used to bridge the break in the circuit board.

End result looks a little like this (hope you can make it out)…

TEU-101BK 4TEU-101BK 5

Standing well back I plugged the speedo back in. Nothing blew up. So I switched it on and tried the throttle…

SUCCESS!

I’m more surprised than anyone. Hopefully it will hold up, hopefully it will still run as fast as the other cars too.

If it does work it has saved me £20 and taught me not to plug things in backwards ever again… stupid boy.

Analysis of brand new Vapextech 2700mAh AA cells

Thursday, March 1st, 2007

Continuing the theme of cell testing this week I have been checking out the Vapextech 2700 AA cell, to see if it a good choice for high-drain use (i.e in my Kyosho Mini Inferno!).

You can download a spreadsheet with my findings here – Analysis of Vapextech 2700 AA

To sum up, the cells cope will with the 2.5A fast charge and cope well with a 3A and 5A discharge. But 10A is beyond them and they dump after only 700mAh.

The proof of the pudding will be a road test in the Mini Inferno – a report on that to come.

Analysis of IB4200 cells after approximately 100 cycles

Thursday, February 22nd, 2007

I will be rebuilding my packs into a different fomat shortly so I decided to take the time to cycle each cell (IB4200 original type) individually and hopefully re-match them at the same time.

The cells were straight from the factory and unmatched when built in late 2005. Unfortunately I did not keep a record of their discharge performance when new.

Attached is a .xls spreadsheet that includes all the results (19 cells in total). Analysis of IB4200 after approximately 100 cycles

It is clear that the cells have a much lower voltage and capacity compared to when new. Although the majority of cells are quite similar, there are a handful with significantly better/worse performance.

A few notes/disclaimers about the testing…

1. Charger used was a Much-More Cell Master attached to an Eagle single cell holder. The settings were 1 cell/5.0A charge/03mV delta/1min pause after charge/10.0A discharge/0.9V cutoff.

2. The cells were only cycled once

3. The cell numbering is just for reference, I didn’t take note of which cells had been built into which pack.

4. Cell 19 is the closest I had to a control cell. It was hanging around in my pitbox and has had only a few cycles, but had dropped to 0V in storage. It has a much higher voltage and a much lower IR but capacity is similar.

If you have any questions or comments then why not add them?

 

New pics of Kyosho Ultima RB-5

Thursday, February 15th, 2007

Courtesy of Kyosho America…

Kyosho Ultima RB-5 1Kyosho Ultima RB-5 2Kyosho Ultima RB-5 3Kyosho Ultima RB-5 4Kyosho Ultima RB-5 5Kyosho Ultima RB-5 6

Kyosho Ultima RB5 Competition 2WD EP Buggy

Feb. 14, 2007 – Kyosho announces the new Ultima RB5 electric racing buggy. It’s a virtually all-new design that is the result of years of R&D and includes the collective experience of the world’s most experienced RC racing drivers and engineers from the world’s most experienced RC racing company. The main goal of the new Ultima RB5 is simple – to win the next IFMAR World Championship.

The new Ultima RB5 only shares rear hubs with the Lazer ZX-5 and a few common hardware items, but the essential and distinguishing components of the car, such as the chassis, transmission, bulkheads, shock towers, suspension and the sleek aerodynamic body, are all new. Each aspect of the car is specially designed and tested to produce maximum performance. Likewise, the materials chosen for this new Ultima are exhaustively tested – all with the goal to create the ultimate no-nonsense competition car that’s ready to take on the world.

Chassis – The chassis plate is light and strong, featuring a specially formulated carbon fiber composite for the best balance of performance and durability. Strategic braces molded into the chassis enhance the stiffness without adding any unnecessary weight. Separate front and rear “clips” allow fast and easy removal of the front or rear end of the car, which makes maintenance and repair much easier. Designed to accept stick packs and racing-style 6-cell matched packs, the RB5 chassis features an adjustable battery mounting position that allows you to shift weight bias to suit track conditions and your driving style.

Transmission – The new transmission features a smaller, more compact housing that keeps the motor as low and close to the transmission as possible, which reduces CG and improves bump handing. The three-gear transmission features an internal ball differential that uses standard 3/32-inch diff balls and 1/16-inch thrust balls. The differential is also externally adjustable, and a dust cover fits over the adjustment holes so the thrust bearing lasts much longer. An injection molded gear cover is included, which better fits the motor plate to minimize dust and debris for longer gear life.

Rear Suspension – The rear suspension arms are symmetrical so a single replacement arm can be used on either side of the car, saving money and space inside your pit box because you don’t need to carry as many replacement parts. The inside of the arms are attached to the chassis using separate suspension mounts, which will allows anti-squat adjustment. The rear wheel hubs feature three lower hinge-pin holes, which allow modification of the ride height with minimal disturbance of the suspension geometry. Vertical ball studs for the both the inner and out rod ends of the upper link mean the rear suspension geometry can be fine-tuned with shims.

Front Suspension – Longer, straighter and symmetrical suspension arms connect to a narrow front bulkhead. The bumper/skid plate, suspension block, nose plate and front bulkhead all come together to form a very rigid assembly, to which the front suspension arms mount. The standard position of the suspension mount produces 25 degrees of hinge pin angle in the front suspension arms, but simply flipping the suspension mount increases the hinge pin angle to 30 degrees. The added flexibility of having adjustable hinge pin angles means you have more options when it comes to setting up your car. Like the rear arms, a single replacement arm can be used on either side of the car.

Offset steering hubs make high-speed handling a dream, while floating axles ride in bearings that are mounted in the hub instead of the wheel This moves the weight of the bearings inboard for more responsive suspension, the bearings are under less stress, and they’re better shielded from the elements. This means the front wheel bearings last longer and run smoother. The front track width is also easily adjusted, which means the amount of steering response is easily increased or decreased for track conditions and driver preference.

Steering Assembly – Ball bearings provide smooth movement of the steering bellcranks, which are mounted on the chassis at the same angle as the suspension arms. This eliminates bump steer and produces more accurate Ackerman geometry throughout the entire range of steering motion. The steering plate (center link) features horizontally mounted ball studs, which mean Ackerman can be fine tuned using shims behind the ball studs, offering a nearing infinite range of adjustment.

Captured Hinge Pins – A simple button head screw captures all the outer hinge pins of the Ultima RB5. The rear inner hinge pins are truly captured between the suspension mounts, and the notched inner front pins are secured with a setscrew through the front suspension mount. This means that the hinge pins are much more secure and less likely to come loose.

Low-Profile Shock Towers – The front shock tower is mounted as far back on the chassis as possibly, as are the shocks, to keep the mass as low as possible. Likewise, the rear shock tower is also designed to keep a low profile, yet allow enough suspension travel to ensure the best possible handling. The shock towers are molded from an exhaustively tested composite, which is much more costly to produce than shock towers made from woven graphite, but will also provide greater durability.

Threaded Aluminum “Triple” Shocks – Kyosho is well known for silky smooth shocks and the new “Triple” shocks included with the Ultima RB5 are no exception. The shock body consists of three major components – a top cap, threaded body, and a lower cap. The aluminum shock bodies feature a threaded spring pre-load collar for quick and easy adjustment. The threaded adjuster features an O-ring that prevents the preload settings from moving, which ensures consistent performance from start to finish. The lower shock cap allows quick and easy maintenance of the double O-ring seals.

Low-Profile Body – no less than ten versions of the new body for the RB5 were thoroughly tested to maximize performance and to ensure that you have the best-looking car on the track. The entire R&D team as well as the factory drivers were involved in the development, and the finished product is the best-performing body ever used on a 2WD buggy according to the team.

SPECIFICATIONS:

Category: 1:10 competition 2WD electric buggy

Wheelbase: 10.63 in. (270mm)

Track width: 9.84 in. (250mm)

Weight: 57.2 oz. (1620g)

Chassis: Molded carbon composite

Transmission: Compact 3-gear

Differential: Externally adjustable ball-type

Transmission ratio: 2.6:1

Slipper: Double-disc, spring-loaded

Bearings: Teflon-sealed (transmission); metal shielded

Suspension: Lower H-arm w/steel turnbuckles

Shocks: 3-piece threaded aluminum, oil-damped

Driveshafts: Steel CV-type

Gears: 48-pitch

30074B – Ultima RB5 Competition 2WD EP Buggy

Some pics from NERCR 17/12/06

Monday, December 18th, 2006

These haven’t come out at all well. The combo of wood floor and strange indoor light doesn’t really work out. And I haven’t got the camera skills to compensate!

NERCR 1NERCR 2NERCR 3